I have a confession to make: I am a recent convert to cheese.
So when I learned that Taste DC was hosting a Cheese Classification Tasting conducted by Cheesetique proprietor Jill Erber, the first lady of cheese, I jumped at the chance to kick-start my path to cheese enlightenment.
Joining 25 other Epicureans at Taste DC's headquarters, I quickly learned from Taste DC's founder, Charlie Adler, that the rules that governed strict matching of cheese and wine have been abandoned in our modern era.
"There is no such thing as a perfect match between cheese and wine - it is all a matter of personal preference," he said.
With a jovial tone and a crowd of pupils salivating at paper plates brimming with 10 samples of cheese, Erber began her informative and enchanting overview of cheese - from to collection to creation to consumption.
Cheese Origins
Similar to winemaking, Erber noted the process of creating cheese can be easily "messed up" in a myriad of ways.
Anyone who has consumed overprocessed, over-aged or under-ripe cheese can attest to the fact that cheesemaking requires as much skill, finesse, patience and talent as any fine art.
Everything at every step in the process affects the flavor, texture and character of a variety of cheese. Depending on the variety of cheese produced, there are a number of different steps throughout the process that will deliver the finished product.
The majority of cheese we consume comes from three sources: cow, sheep and goat's milk. Cheese derived from cow's milk tends to be the most common and creates the creamiest and richest varieties of cheese. Goat's milk cheeses have the highest acid content of all cheese, which contributes to the tart flavor and crumbly consistency. According to Erber, sheep's milk "has the most of everything."
The upside to this is they contain the most minerals and nutrients, such as calcium, but they also have the highest levels of sugar and fat, creating rich and heavy cheeses.
Storing Cheese
Erber explained that when it comes to storing cheese, consumers should be careful to achieve a balance between keeping the cheese from drying out and avoiding smothering the cheese. If wrapped in plastic wrap, many cheeses can suffocate. Brie and other soft-ripened cheese are difficult to store because their mold is delicate - wrapping in plastic wrap will kill their moldy rinds and erase their flavor. Erber provided two solutions, depending on the type of cheese.
She recommended not storing stinky or pungent cheese at all, since the smell with infect other food in your refrigerator. If you do need to store it, she advises using an airtight Tupperware container. For milder cheeses, Erber said wrapping the cheese in aluminum foil will keep the cheese from drying out without depriving it of air entirely.
Serving Spectacular Cheese
When it comes to serving a cheese course, there are a number of ways to experiment with flavor and style combinations. Traditionally, a cheese course is served after the main course, before dessert, although today many gourmands exchange cheese for a first course or offer it in place of dessert. The cheese should be served at room temperature - if it is cold and has been in the refrigerator, remove the cheese 30 to 40 minutes before serving.
The Types
Just as wines have different styles, cheese also fits into different classifications, or what Erber calls families.
Fresh cheese: This refers to cheeses not aged which also lack an obvious shape. On our plates, we partook of a fresh milk ricotta from Italy that was sweet and buttery and a buffalo mozzarella, also from Italy, that was creamy and lacy with a hint of salt. Per Adler's recommendations, these cheeses paired well with crisp sauvignon blanc wines from the Loire Valley and New Zealand.
Soft-ripened cheese: These cheeses are semisoft and have what Erber calls a "bloomy rind" that adds an unctuous flavor. Without a doubt, the best cheese I tried was the soft-ripened frommage d'affinois; runnier than a typical brie, this tasted as good as sweet cream.
Natural rind cheese: There are no molds or washes added to these cheeses, so their rinds form naturally. Because of this, they are usually aged longer and have a denser consistency than other cheeses. We tried a Tomme de Savoie that was mild in flavor but rich in texture and worked well with a light and spicy Spanish Roja red wine provided by Adler.
Uncooked pressed cheese: During the cheesemaking process, the curds solidify without cooking and pressing drains the whey, creating a firm texture. We tried tasty examples of Manchego, a firm Spanish cheese rolled in rosemary, and an American artisan noble cheddar from Pennsylvania that was spicy and sharp and made a fantastic pairing with Adler's ruby port.
Cooked pressed cheese: This cooking process involves cooking the curds to help them solidify, creating a smooth and firm texture. One of the best examples we tasted was a hearty Gruyére from Switzerland whose nutty and sweet flavor paired well with a South African cabernet sauvignon.
When blue mold is added to the curd during the cheesemaking process, the resulting product is blue-veined cheese. The most famous varieties are Roquefort and Gorgonzola. We were lucky enough to try another American artisan variety from Massachusetts known as Great Hill blue. Sharper than Gorgonzola but still buttery and with less salt than many blue cheeses, this was delightful with the ruby port.
The most pungent of cheeses, the washed rind family: During the aging process, producers rinse or rub these cheeses with different solutions to promote unique bacterial growth, which creates their equally unique and distinct flavor. Erber said that while these cheeses often seem "scary" to less adventurers consumers, "these cheeses never taste the way they smell."
Caprese Salad
Adapted from "Happy Days with the Naked Chef" by Jamie Oliver.
12 oz. whole fresh buffalo mozzarella, sliced
3/4 inch thick
4 Roma tomatoes, sliced
1/2 cup basil leaves
Extra virgin olive oil
Balsamic vinegar
Salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
On a plate, alternate slices of mozzarella, tomato and basil leaves so they cover the circumference of the plate. Drizzle salad with olive oil and vinegar and add salt and pepper to taste. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
Fig Salad
6 ripe black or green figs
8 oz. fresh goat's cheese bûche (log), sliced thickly
6 slices prosciutto
1 tbsp. fresh chopped basil
4 tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil
2 tbsp. fresh lemon juice
1 tsp. honey
Balsamic vinegar
Salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
1. Crisscross each fig, cutting down halfway horizontally and vertically. Arrange figs on a platter.
2. Place slices of prosciutto around each fig, winding through the crisscrossed center.
3. Top each fig with a slice of goat's cheese. Sprinkle with chopped basil.
4. Combine olive oil, lemon juice and honey and whisk together until fully combined. Pour over figs sparingly.
5. Drizzle salad with balsamic vinegar. Serve immediately.
Serves 4.
Spiced Pecans
2 cups chopped unsalted pecans
2 tbsp. butter, melted
1/4 cup sugar
1 tsp. cinnamon
1/2 tsp. salt
1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.
2. In a medium-size bowl, combine pecans with butter and coat evenly. Spread nuts evenly on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper or aluminum foil.
3. In a small bowl, mix together sugar, cinnamon and salt.
4. Sprinkle mixture over pecans, coating on both sides.
5. Bake for 30 minutes, turning nuts halfway through.
Cheese Cooking Tips
Tips on cooking with cheese from the American Cheese Society
- When preparing dishes using cheese, add the cheese at the end of the preparation, especially in sauces, classic risotto and soups. In casseroles and baked dishes, sprinkle the grated/shredded cheese over the dish the last 10 minutes of baking.
- Grating cheese is easier when the cheese is cold.
- When cooking with cheese on the stovetop, cook cheese over low to medium heat, as cooking over high heat, or for long periods of time, will cause the cheese to separate.
- Dishes prepared with cheese and cooked in a microwave oven should be cooked at lower power settings to prevent the cheese from separating.
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Cheese, please!